Gucci and Pucci: Milan Gridlock
The press notes went on to say that trousers paid homage to the Capri, a staple in Pucci collections. What I saw was a very skinny, low-riding cargo pant in military green or suede. Dundas likes sexy clothes — he’s been on the case — but some folks will see similarities to the glam trashiness of Christophe Decarnin’s Balmain.
Well, so be it. Sexiness of this kind is a pretty shallow wading pool to quibble about who plays in it. If you’re looking at the collection online, check out the oversized T-shirts, a silky baseball jacket with embroidery on the back, and the cute clutch bags. If Dundas can develop “the product,” as retailers say, he may just have something at Pucci.
Bottega Veneta was dreamy and interesting today. The shapes were very one-dimensional, the opening crepe silk and twill dresses like envelopes. I didn’t see the connection between the soft cream-tone dresses and black granny booties with anklets. But at least you could see the models’ legs. Some of Tomas Maier’s long pleated dresses were beautiful — and we haven’t seen a lot of plain-old beautiful.
It will scarcely come as a surprise to long-time observers of Italian fashion that several designers focused on sex for fall. Isn’t that somebody’s job here? But to see the back-to-back collections today of Frida Giannini at Gucci and Peter Dundas at Pucci is to marvel at how succinct each was in relating the sexy essentials. Apparently all you need is a loose top and a pair of leggings or ultra-skinny pants.
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